[. . . ] A water softener will not improve other water problems such as acidity, tastes and odors, or iron other than clear water iron. It will not purify contaminated water, or make other unsafe water safe to drink. Sears sells a complete line of water treating equipment to correct various water problems. To be sure you have the proper type and size equipment, you must have your water tested. Your Sears store can give you water test results for hardness, iron and acidity, and tell you what equipment you need. [. . . ] Now look at the common plans for in and out piping on pages 10 (soldered copper) and 11 (threaded). Select the drawing best for you and use it as a guide to plan what materials you will need. As you plan your in and out piping, keep in mind the following check list. NOTE: Use page 9 to make a plan drawing for your specific installation. Some models may include a plastic bypass valve, an installation kit and a length of drain tubing. You should maintain the same, or larger, pipe size as the water supply pipe, up to the softener inlet and outlet. 4 You can buy adaptors to go from a copper or threaded main water pipe to CPVC in and out pipe. PLAN YOUR INSTALLATION TOOLS, PIPE AND FITTINGS, OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED 4 Sears has kits and bypass valves you can buy to help make installing your softener easier. Bypass valves let you turn off water to the softener if needed to make repairs, but still have water in the house pipes. Some models include a length of drain tubing, or you can buy it at most Sears stores. If a rigid valve drain is needed to comply with plumbing codes, you can buy the parts needed (see page 16) to change the softener to a 1/2 in. 4 TOOLS NEEDED:-- Common and cross point (Phillips) screw drivers, slip joint pliers and a tape measure or rule. If needed, put a piece of 3/4² plywood, at least 17² x 20², under the tank. Do not put shims or spacers directly under the tank, without the plywood. The weight of the softener, when full of salt and water, may cause the tank to puncture or break at the shim or spacer. To move the softener, grip under the ridge on the salt tank sidewall and carefully rock back and forth, into position. 2. CONNECT THE SOFTENER (Refer to your plan drawing on page 9, and to page 10 or 11. Then, measure, cut (thread if needed) and put all pipe and fittings together up to the main water pipe, or to the bypass valve(s) you installed on page 14. FIG. Include adaptors, reducers, union fittings, *flexible connectors, installation kit, etc. , as needed. Use pipe joint compound or Teflon tape on outside pipe threads. d. When all piping fits together¼ ¼ solder all sweat fittings. ¼ tighten all threaded joints. CAUTIONS: Y Never solder fittings while connected to non-metallic parts. Y Be very careful when putting pipe fittings onto the plastic threads of the softener adaptors, or the bypass valve. CHECK YOUR LOCAL CODES. 15 SECTION 3 3D. STEP BY STEP GUIDES TO INSTALL CONNECT VALVE AND SALT TANK DRAINS Y Keep the tubing lower than the drain fitting. [. . . ] 12 showing your kind of bypass valve(s). STEP BY STEP GUIDES TO INSTALL PRESSURE TEST --- CHECK FOR LEAKS FIG. Place bypass valve(s) in "bypass" position. On a single valve, slide the stem into BYPASS. On a 3-valve system, close the inlet and outlet valves and open the bypass valve. FIG. as follows: Keep soft water faucets open. Bypass valve(s) should always remain in soft water service position. [. . . ]